Walking Tour: Golden Mount to Giant Swing

The Golden Mount

 
During his reign from 1824 to 1851, King Rama III began the construction of many temples which are today some of the major landmarks of Bangkok. This walking tour takes in many of the less frequented of these monuments. The walk weaves in an out of the eastern defensive wall marking the original confines of the royal precinct, before finally heading into the center of the city. See a map of the suggested route below.

Start at the Golden Mount. You should be able to get there by taxi, or you can brave the water taxi along Saen Saeb canal from the Siam Square area.

The mount was started by King Rama III, although what you see now isn't what he had in mind. The plan was to build a giant chedi - a much larger version of the golden bell-shaped shrine you can see at the Temple of the Emerald Buddha. The core structure was being constructed using logs and bricks. The soft earth of Bangkok could not support the weight and the pagoda collapsed before it was completed. The project was abandoned until a later king built a small chedi on top of the mound. The concrete casing seen in the photo was only added around World War II. See our full length article for more on the Golden Mount.

Exit the Golden Mount via the rear gateway. You come out onto a street lined with carpentry and wood shops. Turn right and walk up the street past a fire station and over a bridge crossing Saen Saeb canal. Directly ahead of you is the museum dedicated to Rama VII. Veer left over another bridge and walk past the Pom Mahakan fortifications. The fort was built around the time Bangkok was founded in the late 18^th century to defend the city against invasions like the one that toppled Ayuthaya.

Looking across Rama III park at the Loha Prasat

Across the street from the fort is Rama III park, built to honor the king who started both the Golden Mount and Wat Ratchanadda, which stands behind the park. In the formally planted gardens of the park are a statue of King Rama III and a delicate gilded pavilion of Thai design.

The Loha Prasat

Spend as much time as you want to explore the small park, then proceed on to Wat Ratchanadda behind the park. Within the temple compound is one of the most unusual temple buildings in Bangkok, the Loha Prasat. Like the Golden Mount, the prasat ("castle") was also started by King Rama III, but only recently completed. The building is so unique that it's featured on the Thai 500 Baht bank note.

In addition to the Loha Prasat, Wat Ratchanadda also has a thriving amulet market. Here you'll find anything and everything to bring good luck or ward off evil spirits. If you wander through the market and out the back, you'll see more of the market, plus the painted ruins of another temple.

After browsing the amulet market, you need to backtrack a little bit by returning to the Golden Mount. If you want to vary the scenery a little, try passing through one of the two arched openings in the old city wall extending from the Pom Mahakan fort. This will take you to an open space from which you can get a better view of the fort. You can reach the bridge over the canal by walking along the canal towards the fort, which will bring you back to the front. Re-cross the two canals to get back to the Golden Mount.

Walk past the gate to the Golden Mount. Enjoy the honeyed smell of sawdust until the narrow street you're on is crossed by a major street: Bamrung Meuang Road. Cross the street and continue on a short way. Turn down the first alley on your left, Soi Ban Baht. This takes you into the area known as the Monk's Bowl Village. The village was established by King Rama I to manufacture alms bowls for monks. Although every monk in the kingdom still carries an alms bowl, the village itself is not very active. You may, or may not, hear the pinging of hammers as you walk down the street.

The Giant Swing

After walking down the street a short way, take the next left to loop back to Bamrung Meuang Road, where you turn left again so that you'll cross paths with the way you came. However, from here continue on along Bamrung Meuang Road. You'll again cross a canal and through the old city walls.

About five minutes' walk down Bamrung Meuang Road will bring you to the Giant Swing, siting in a kind of traffic circle. The swing stands nearly 100 feet high. A sort of contest was held here until the 1930's but it was banned after several deaths.

The Giant Swing stands in front of Wat Suthat temple. This is one of the most important temples in Thailand. It has been under royal patronage since Bangkok's founding, and supplies priest for many important royal ceremonies. Inside the wiharn is a revered Buddha image surrounded by richly painted walls.

Suggested route.

By now, you have probably been walking for at least two hours, maybe more like three. However, if you're game for more you have a couple of options. You can continue in a westerly direction along Botphram Road (which changes names to Kanlaya Mitri along the way). After crossing another canal, you will come to the Defense Ministry building and then to the walls of the Grand Palace. Turning right will take you to the City Pillar (Lak Meuang) shrine and around to the front entrance of the Grand Palace, Sanam Luang and National Museum.

One of the old watch towers in Romaneenart Park.

Alternatively, you can walk away from the Giant Swing along the roads passing Wat Suthat on either side - Tritong Road and Burapha Road. Burapha is the recommended route. Turn right as you exit Wat Suthat and then right again at the next street. Not far down you will see a Vishnu shrine on the broad path separating Burapha and Siriphong roads. The walk is broad and has plenty of trees for shade. Further down you come to Romaneenart Park, which stands on the site of the old city jail. Some of the guard towers and the eastern wall of the jail have been left standing. A shady seat next to one of the many fountains makes a good place to cool down.

Just past the park, the two roads merge together. Continue walking down the street, which you'll notice is lined mostly with gun shops. Another block or so will bring you to The Old Siam plaza, where you can find western fast food outlets as well as a food court to eat in air conditioned comfort. From the Old Siam, you can dive into Chinatown or continue down Triphet or Chakraphet road to the river, where you can catch the River Express boat service to a riverside hotel, or to the Taksin Bridge Skytrain station.