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Written by Michael Holland


 

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Bahn Moh

Just across the inner-most defensive moat of the royal city, Klong Lawd, not far from Wat Po, was a Mon village that sold earthenware which was shipped to the new capital by boat from places such as Koh Kred. Moh is the Thai word for a large pot, hence the area was called Bahn Moh, or 'pot village'.

Bahn Moh Palace

In 1832, after a fire destroyed many palaces and buildings in the area, Prince Phithakthewet, the 22nd son of King Rama II (1809 - 1824), built Bahn Moh palace in the area. The Prince was in charge of the Cavalry Department under Rama III (1824 - 1851), and later also the Elephant Department under Rama IV (1851 - 1868).

The palace was built in traditional Thai style, raised well above the ground with a wooden frame and unglazed clay tiled roof. The palace is very likely the oldest example of the traditional Thai house in Bangkok. But, sadly, it is still in the private hands of the descendants of the Prince, and is not open to the public.

Bahn Moh District Today

Bahn Moh
Old shophouses along Atsadang Road in Bahn Moh

 
The Bahn Moh area in modern times is a rather quirky place. If you walk down Atsadang Road from Wat Ratchabophit towards the river, you'll pass dozens of shops and street stalls selling nothing but electronic gear. Whether you're thinking of building your own computer from the board up, or opening a dance club, everything you might need can be found here.

Further down the road, where it the canal curves to flow back into the river, the street is lined with some fine old shophouses, most of which are still 'working' commercial buildings.

 


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