Ratanakosin Walking Tour
When King Rama I decided to move the capital to Bangkok, he had a series of defensive canals dug to protect the eastern approach to the city, effectively turning the core of the royal city into an island, called Ratanakosin. All of the government functions were originally operated from buildings and compounds located on Ratanakosin Island.
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Most tourists will visit the Grand Palace at the center of the island, and usually Wat Po as well. However, there's a lot more of interest than just these two sights. This walking tour is designed to take you through some of these other sights. You can combine this tour with a visit to Wat Po or the Grand Palace, but either one of those is a half-day trip in itself, so it might be a little too much to do in one go.
To start, take the Chaophraya Tourist Boat to the Thien Pier. If you'd rather not take the boat, you can take a taxi or public bus to Wat Po. In either case walk east (away from the river) to the large intersection. Cross the street to Saranrom Park.
The park was originally part of a palace. It was built by Rama IV in 1866. He planned to use it after he abdicated but he died before it was completed. Rama V gave the palace to his sons, including the crown prince, who stayed there before becoming king. The basic layout of the park today is as it was designed by Rama IV.
The Golden Pig statue.
Exit the park on the east side, and you'll be facing Lord Canal. Crossing the canal will bring you to Wat Ratchabophit. The temple's unique design has the large wiharn and ubosot linked by a circular courtyard. In most Thai temples, the ubosot sits on its own in a square courtyard. In the center of Wat Ratchabophit's courtyard, between the ubosot and the wiharn, is a large guilded chedi containing a seated Lopburi-style Buddha image.
After visiting the temple, if you re-cross the canal using the footbridge at the north end of the temple, you'll find on the opposite side a gilded statue of a pig. The story is that the footbridge was built by one of the wives of King Rama V. For many years the bridge had no name, but since the lady was born in the year of the pig, the bridge became known by that name. The statue was erected later in her honor.
Cross the street next to the Golden Pig, and take the next side street just a short distance further north. On the left side of the street is Wat Ratchapradit. This small crowded temple was started by Rama IV. The temple is finished mostly in small grey marble tiles laid out to form a sort of checkerboard pattern. One of the most interesting features are two prangs in the style of Angkor Thom in Cambodia.
The balcony at the side of the Grand Palace where the king used to appear.
Turn left upon leaving the temple and continue down to the end of the road. You'll once again be facing the outer wall of the Grand Palace across Sanamchai Road. Turn right to walk northward towards the Ministry of Defense. On your right is the original Saranarom Palace building, now the foreign ministry, while across the road on your left you'll see a large balcony in the wall of the Grand Palace.
In the early days of Bangkok, the Grand Palace was essentially a self-contained city. It had its own wells and gardens, and all the functions of state were housed within the walls. There was no reason for the king to leave the palace at all. Naturally, there was a need for the king to show himself from time to time, and that is the function this balcony served.
The Ministry of Defense headquarters with its collection of cannons -- aimed at the Grand Palace.
Further up the street is the Ministry of Defense building. Arranged on the front lawn of the building is a collection of cannons from Thai history. Its curious to note, as more than one guidebook does, that most of the cannons are aimed at the Grand Palace.
Next to the Ministry of Defense is Bangkok's City Pillar shrine. The pillar was driven into the ground on the auspiscious time and date of 6:45 a.m. on the 21st of April in 1782, the official date of Bangkok's founding.
Across the street from the City Pillar is the large open space of Sanam Luang. These parade grounds are the site of many important ceremonies and celebrations. Between late February and April, the grounds are also the main place to see traditional Thai kite fights.
Cross Sanam Luang, at about the mid-point along the side, a shady street (Prachan Road) leads away from the park beside Wat Mahathat. On most days, the street is lined with amulet sellers offering special protection to those that need it. The street turns left to parallel the river and becomes Mahathat Road. The entrance to Wat Mahathat is a short way down this street.
Founded in the 18th century, the temple pre-dates the founding of Bangkok, but was considerably altered after one of its monks, the young Prince Mongkut, later became King Rama IV of Thailand.
After exiting the temple, continuing on down the road will bring you to Chang Pier, where you can catch the Chaophraya Tourist Boat.
