The city of Nakhon Phanom sits right ont he bank of the Mekong River, more or less directly across from the city of Tha Kaek in Laos. There isn't a lot to see in the town. Most people just pass through on their way to neighboring cities or to cross the river into Laos. But there is probably enough of interest to warrant spending a night here. See the Nakhon Phanom city map for an idea of what there is to see and where they are.
The thick forest of Wat Aranyikawat
The name Nakhon Phanom literally means 'city of mountains' but the modern city is completely flat. The mountains are across the river in Laos, in the form of jagged peaks that can be quite a dramatic sight in the afternoon. The name was given to the city by King Rama I in the eighteenth century.
The main spire (Phrathat Nakhon) of Wat Mahathat
The city was once part of the Lao kingdom of Lan Xang. One legend has it that a plague struck That Phanom in the seventh century or so, and the survivors settled first across the river in present-day Tha Kaek, and later moved back to the west bank, establishing what became Nakhon Phanom. However, this story is somewhat at odds with the history of the city's most important historical site: the Phrathat Nakhon spire, which was reportedly built in the year 607.
Governor's Mansion Museum
Tours of Nakhon Phanom city would mostly stick to the riverfront, which has a wide promenade on the banks of the Mekong, while the other side of the road is lined with several temples and other historic places. Starting at Wat Phra In Plaeng at the southern end of the esplanade, you can work your way to Wat Mahathat, the Indochine market, Wat Okat, the old Governor's Mansion, and end up at Saint Anna Church.
There are only a few hotels in Nakhon Phanom, and they are mostly tourist class places, but they will do for a night or two. Likewise, there aren't many restaurants in town, especially ones that have English speaking staff.
The new city pillar shrine The city pillar of Nakhon Phanom is a very modern shrine. It was only put up in 1992. City Pillars are more of a central Thai tradition than a northeastern one. The pillar itself is a god-covered shaft sunk into the ground near the old city hall. The pavilion covering the pillar does have local touches, such as a spire that looks like the Phrathat Nakhon.
North of the current city center along the banks of the river is the former governor's mansion. It was built around 1912 to 1914 for the first governor appointed from Bangkok. It was a time when there were still tensions with the colonial French across the Mekong, so the house was strongly built to resist attack, and even had a sort of bunker in the basement.
The exterior of the former governor's mansion, now a museum.
There aren't very many hotels in Nakhon Phanom. There a just a half-dozen or so locally run accommodations, most of them decidedly tourist class. There are two big hotels right on the river well south of town, the Viewkong and the Nakhonphanom River View. The other options are mostly within the city itself.
July 2012
My room at the Nakhon Phanom River View hotel in Nakhon Phanom< The Nakhon Phanom River View hotel is one of two large hotels sited right on the river a short distance south of the town center. The hotel's design means that most rooms have a good view of the Mekong. Although I don't think the hotel is very old, it sports a frumpy design typical of provincial hotels, and is already looking quite threadbare.
The old city hall, now the national library This building used to be the Nakhon Phanom city hall. It was built using convict labor in 1915. It was bombed by the French in the early days of World War II (either 1940 or 1941, depending on the source) and was left abandoned until the late 1970s, when its historical significance was recognized and renovation efforts began. It was turned into a branch of the National Library in honor of the king.
A very good lunch at Coffee House There are not a lot of restaurants in Nakhon Phanom, and certainly it seemed like there were fewer riverside fish restaurants than in That Phanom. You will find a few restaurants, cafés and coffee shops around town, mostly along the riverfront. I didn't have time to sample many places during my short visit, but I did particularly like Coffee House, a popular little restaurant just north of the old Governor's House museum.
Saint Anna Nong Saeng Catholic church is right on the river at the far north end of Nakhon Phanom town. Most of the direction signs around town simply label it as 'Catholic'.
The chapel of Saint Anna Church The church, which is a Co-Cathedral, was established in 1926, although the current chapel would appear to date from the 1970s. Different sources refer to this church as Saint Ann, Saint Anne and Saint Anna.
Nakhon Phanom doesn't seem to be a big shopping town. Although there are some villages in the province that are famous for their silk, you won't find much of it on sale. There are no big souvenir shops or stalls around town.
Indochine Market is a small market facing the river just a short way north of the old car ferry ramp. The first floor is full of small shops selling just about anything you can name, although it's all mostly cheap stuff.
The clock tower donated by the Vietnamese community to the people of Nakhon Phanom The clock tower, in the 'walking street' area of town near the river, was built in 1960 by the Vietnamese community, when many of them returned to their fatherland to fight in the 'American' war. Nakhon Phanom is the closest part of Thailand to Vietnam, which is less than 200 kilometers away, across Laos, and the province saw some action during the war.
I first spotted this temple from the back of the tuk-tuk taking me to my hotel. At first, it just looked like an overgrown vacant lot, and I suspect a lot of people pass by it without realizing what it is. But as soon as I saw little glimpses of small funeral pagodas lining the inside of the wall, and a few larger structures poking up, I knew what it was: a forest temple, right in the middle of Nakhon Phanom.
The main spire (Phrathat Nakhon) of Wat Mahathat Wat Mahathat houses the Phrathat Nakhon, the second-most important that (pagoda) in the province. In addition to the elegant spire, there's a small museum here that may be of interest. It mainly houses a collection of Buddhist and Hindu images.
Some of the small statues on display in the temple's museum The tower was built in 607 AD on the orders of a army chief from Vientiane who brought his troops here to settle.
Wat Okat is a small temple just north of the Indochine market on the riverfront. Although small, the temple houses two very important Buddha images, which you will see people praying and making offerings to throughout the day.
The two main chapels of Wat Okat. The sacred Buddha images are in the one on the right. The origins of the temple are unclear, but the two images, both of which are carved wood, were said to be made around the eighth century or later.
The elaborate eastern gate of Wat Phra In Plaeng, facing the river. Phra In Plaeng is the southern-most of the string of temples that line the Mekong in Nakhon Phanom. The gate to the temple facing the river is quite elaborate, with framed Buddha images looking like super-sized amulets. The temple houses a revered Buddha image - 'Phra In Plaeng' - believed to be over 1,000 years old.
Some guardian 'bird' statues at Wat Phra In Plaeng It's worth having a look inside the temple to view the guardian statues around the main chapel.
