On the banks of the Mekhong River at the southern-most point of the Golden Triangle tourist area is the ancient city of Chiang Saen. The town is still very small, even though it appears to have been a major trading crossroads since the seventh century. It was probably part of the kingdom of Yonok, and birthplace of Mengrai, who founded the kingdom of Lanna.
The ancient temple of Wat Pa Sak, just outside the old walls of Chiang Saen
It was actually around 1328 that the city you can see today was laid out when King Saen Phu, Mengrai's nephew, moved the capital of Lanna to Chiang Saen, which he named after himself. This is when the walls were built and the moat dug.
During the long history of conflict between the Siamese and Burmese kingdoms, possession of Chiang Saen passed back and forth. Finally, after pushing the Burmese completely out of Siam, King Rama I had Chiang Saen leveled in 1804 to remove it as a temptation to the Burmese. It was reoccupied by descendants of the original citizens in 1881 on the orders of Rama V.
Chiang Saen today is an interesting place to spend some time, although most visit on a day trip from Chiang Rai or Chiang Mai. You can easily make out the remains of most of the city's walls and moat, as well as several temples and defenses. In the grounds of the old Wat Mahathat is an information center that can provide you with current information about what has been restored.
On top of a hill a short way from the city's northwest corner is this recently restored temple with its ancient gilded chedi and fantastic view of the city and the river.
Down-river 70 kilometers (40 miles) from Chiang Saen is the small town of Chiang Khong. Although part of a kingdom established 1,300 years ago, there is little to be seen in Chiang Khong. The town's main claim to fame is as a port for goods headed to or from China, as well as a crossing point for entry to Laos.
There aren't very many hotels in Chiang Saen. There a just a dozen or so locally run hotels, most of them decidedly tourist class. Note that some of the hotels are located outside the city. If the primary reason for your visit is to see the historical sights, then make sure your selection is within the city. Check the maps available at the booking site before making your reservation.
Far from being the 'wild west' that some people imagine, the Golden Triangle has in recent years become an area popular with those looking for a little adventure as well as a little luxury. There are a number of resorts where you can learn to drive an elephant or cook Thai food, or just get pampered in a spa.
Just inside the western gate to the city and next to Wat Chedi Luang is the Chiang Saen branch of the National Museum. The museum is a good starting point if you're planning to spend some time looking around. There are pictures of the major temples around town, as well as artifacts recovered from various excavations. Some of them date from pre-history.
Admission Fee There's a 30 baht for entry to the museum for westerners.
The old pagoda of the temple, with a newly roofed old chapel to the left. Wat Chedi Luang, next to the National Museum, was once Chiang Saen's main temple. There's no exact date for the temple's founding, but most agree it must have been between the twelfth and fourteenth century.
The large chedi (pagoda) which gives the temple its name is 18 meters (60 feet) tall. The octagonal shape is considered typical of the Chiang Saen style.
Just outside the western gate is the 'teak forest' temple of Wat Pa Sak. Several structures are still visible. The main chedi (pagoda) was built in 1340 by Saen Phu, the founder of Chiang Saen. The temple's name alludes to the hundreds of teak trees planted on the order of Saen Phu.
The old pagoda of Wat Pa Sak, siting in its teak wood forest. The buildings have been excavated and restored by the Thai Fine Arts Department.
The ubosot (ordination hall) of Wat Chom Chaeng At the top of a hill a short distance from the northwest corner of Chiang Saen is the temple of Wat Phrathat Chom Kitti. The temple, and in particular its chedi, is thought to pre-date the founding of Chiang Saen.
You can reach the the temple via a stairway of 350 steps from the main road at the base of the mountain, or you can be lazy and drive up.
