The Phi Phi islands lie near the mouth of Phang Nga bay at about an equal distance from Phuket and Krabi towns. Although technically part of a national park, the islands have been developed almost as long as Phuket. There are two main islands in the group. Only the largest, Phi Phi Don, hosts tourists. The smaller island, Phi Phi Lay (or Phi Phi Le), is spectacular in its own right, and frequently visited on day trips from the larger island.
Phi Phi was renowned for the clearness of its water and the beauty of its corals. Unfortunately, it suffered somewhat from over development. The December 2004 tsunami wreaked havoc on the many poorly constructed cheap bungalows and small hotels that crowded the low-lying sand bar that separates Loh Dalum and Tonsai bays. Some hoped that, after the disaster, any rebuilding would be done with a little more planning and control, but all hopes for that soon went out the window and development picked up pretty much where it left off.
A classic long-tailed boat on Loh Dalum Bay of Phi Phi Island.
Despite the haphazard development and the crowds, Phi Phi does still have its charms. Loh Dalum Bay, with it's long curving sandy beach and warm shallow waters definitely invites you to get your feet wet, and the sheer rock walls definitely lend drama to the scene.
Phi Phi definitely still attracts big crowds of 20-something budget travelers, with lots of low cost accommodations on offer. However, there are a few more exclusive resorts around the island, generally away from the Tonsai / Loh Dalum Bays area.
There is not much to see and do on the island that doesn't involve the water, but there is a big variety of water-related activities, which include visits to other islands, snorkeling and scuba diving.
Phi Phi is a small island, 30 to 40 kilometers from the nearest large body of land. There was a short-lived sea plane service from Phuket, but it died a rather costly death a few years ago. So, the only way to get to Phi Phi is by boat. There is regular ferry service from Phuket, Ao Nang and Koh Lanta.
Note: no matter where you make the trip to Phi Phi from, there's a 20 Baht (Hotels
There are well over 40 hotels, resorts and guesthouses on Koh Phi Phi, so finding just the right one can be a bit difficult. I've made a few suggestions below, based on feedback from trusted friends and fellow travelers. One big decision you should make early on in your hotel search is which area you want to base yourself in. The Tonsai Bay / Loh Dalum area is where a lot of the hotels are, as well as many restaurants, shops and other amenities.
Laemthong (or Laem Tong) is where some of the best resorts on Phi Phi are located. This is probably the best place to go to escape the 20-something / backpacker crowd if you want to enjoy the island life without all the 'scene'.
Loh Dalum Bay is probably the best the best beach for swimming on Phi Phi, if not Thailand. The bay is extremely shallow, and you can easily walk 100 meters (or yards) from shore, and still be only thigh deep. Most of the hotels and resorts here are part of the village that covers the narrow spit of sand that separates Loh Dalum and Tonsai bays, so the will have equal access to all the shops and restaurants of the village.
Long Beach is probably the best alternative for those that want to be close to lots of restaurants and activity options, but don't want to stay in the middle of the madness that Tonsai and Loh Dalum can be.
Map of the Phi Phi Islands There are two Phi Phi islands: Phi Phi Don and the smaller Phi Phi Le. There are no tourist facilities on Phi Phi Le, which has just a few locals in residence. However, it is a popular - some say too popular - day trip destination to swim in "Maya Bay" and view the 'viking' graffiti.
Phi Phi Don is where all the accommodations and other services are located.
There are at least two full service bank exchanges, as well as several ATMs, in the main tourist village spanning between Tonsai and Loh Dalum. See our notes on money, currency and ATM charges for information about using your cards and cash in Thailand.
Phi Phi is definitely a sun, sand and sea destination. There isn't much to do that doesn't involve being on the water, or under it. The sheer rock walls surrounding the islands look like they might be good for climbing, but I didn't see any outfits offering that sport, like there are around Railay.
The main village on Phi Phi Don, as seen from the viewpoint. Tonsai Bay is on the left, Loh Dalum Bay on the right.
Tonsai Bay is where the ferries from Phuket, Ao Nang and Lanta dock, as well as where most of the day trip boats arrive and depart. As such, there's quite a hub-bub to the area, with lots of services, shops and restaurants on offer. With all the boats using the comparatively deep bay and a somewhat rocky beach, Tonsai is not the best place to laze about on the beach.
